ACA Performance Chair - 2019/20 Season Update

Hello ACA Members!

Welcome to another action-packed year within the ACA. The ACA’s primary role is to provide sanctioned events that are used to select athletes to regional and national level competitions. This season there are 7 competitions in the ACA schedule for bouldering and 7 for difficulty and speed. In addition to running sanctioned events, the ACA has become a home-base for sharing non-sanctioned evets and other collaborative / community-based climbing competitions or events.

Northern and Southern Regional Coach:

We’d like to introduce two new performance roles within the ACA; Northern and Southern Regional Coach. Dallas Mix is filling the role of Northern Coach and Chris Neve is filling the role of Southern coach. Their role is to create / organize / plan collaborative opportunities for the athletes in their regions. Information for these collaborative events can be found on the ACA website. They will also be present at camps, regionals and nationals.

Next, we outline the ACA performance plan for 2019/20. The ACA Performance plan is based on a three-tiered approach:

Three Tiered Level Image

 Definitions:

High performing or elite athletes are defined by their involvement in competition climbing at the international level. A high performing athlete is one who will compete at either or both of a: youth world cup, Pan American event or Open world cup in either bouldering, speed or lead (difficulty). High performing athletes can be identified at any time throughout the year.

Talent ID athletes are those who qualify and are selected to attend a Canadian National level competition in either bouldering, speed or lead (difficulty). Talent ID athletes will be identified after Regional events.

Developmental athletes make up the bulk of the ACA membership. These athletes compete at the local and potentially regional level. All registered ACA athletes are considered developmental.

In order to uniquely support ACA athletes, we have created opportunities for collaboration and overall development at each level:

1.      High Performing athlete: Are eligible to participate in events at any level of organization and have some unique support from gyms involved in the ACA. They also have access to the performance chair and regional coaches for support.

2.      Talent ID athletes: Are eligible to attend ACA bouldering, speed and difficulty camps. These camps are invite-only to Talent ID athletes.

3.      Developmental athletes: The performance chair is currently being supported by two regional coaches, Dallas Mix, representing Northern Alberta and Saskatchewan and Chris Neve representing Southern Alberta and BC.  Dallas and Chris’s role within the ACA is to connect with coaches and create collaborative opportunities for athletes in their regions. For example, Sunday morning climbing sessions (generally organized by Chris) at gyms that have just hosted a comp. This is a great space / training environment that is collaborative between athletes and coaches from across the ACA. Both Dallas and Chris are being compensated for their work and will be present at the camps, regionals and nationals.

If you’d like to chat performance, please don’t hesitate to reach out to myself, Regan Kennedy, the performance chair at regan@bolderclimbing.com

Thank you,

Regan