2026 World Climbing Rules and Judging Online Seminar

Last night (November 6, 2026) we hosted a seminar to update our membership on the changes that World Climbing as made to the rules for 2026 on what constitutes zones in bouldering and a “+” lead climbing. Due to technical issues our recording does not have audio until 35 minutes 🫣

I am still going to post the link so anyone who did not attend can watch it to prepare yourselves for tomorrow.

We plan on rerecording the session with full audio over the next few days. Thanks for your understanding!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/14BXNSvBulOja9HyMYMk22h6Pf35QlYoW/view?usp=sharing

Online Information Session: 2026 World Climbing Judging/Scoring Changes for Lead

We will be hosting an online information session on Thursday November 5 at 8:00 pm to update everyone on the new 2026 World Climbing judging and rules for Lead competitions. We are only focusing on Lead/Top Rope for this session to prepare you for our upcoming Ropes events on November 7 and 8. To join the session please use the login information below:

2026 World Climbing Scoring/Judging Updates

Thursday, November 5 · 8:00 – 9:00pm

Time zone: America/Edmonton

Google Meet joining info

Video call link: https://meet.google.com/srk-kxgi-csm

Or dial: ‪(CA) +1 587-977-6379‬ PIN: ‪862 690 828‬#

More phone numbers: https://tel.meet/srk-kxgi-csm?pin=8091394099020

2026-2027 Tier 1 and 2 Roster

We have completed the Tier 1 and 2 Roster for the 2026-2027 season. To view the roster you can use this link. Please make sure you only register for the Tier you are on the roster for!!! If you have any questions please do not hesitate to reach out!

Competition Belaying Clinic

In collaboration with Bolder Climbing, we are hosting a Competition Belaying Clinic taught by Chris Adshade from Calgary Climbing Centre. This event will help us create a network of competition belayers to enhance the competition experience in Alberta for all of our athletes that train their hearts out! We want to provide our athletes with the best competition experience possible, and safety is the most important piece of the experience.

Here are the details:

Where

Bolder Climbing Elevated

Date and Time

November 3, 2026 from 6:00pm-9:00 pm

Event Details

• Maximum of 12 Participants

• This is a free course!

• Prerequisites to participate:

  • Must have an existing lead belay check (at hosting facility) and regularly belay

  • Must bring:

    • harness

    • closed toe shoes

    • leather palmed belay gloves

    • round stock carabiner (such as Petzl Attache') and basic belay tube (ATC with no teeth)

    • Please note, all equipment can also be provided if necessary. If you need to borrow equipment please contact me once you’ve registered.

• To register use this link

We would love to see you put your new found skill to the test at our first Lead Local at Bolder Elevated on November 7, 2026!!!

Tier 1 and 2 Policy Announcement

As of August 26, 2026 the Tier 1 and 2 Policy has been approved by the ACA Board. This new policy has been posted on our website as well. 

Any athlete that has automatically qualified for Tier 1, based on the policy, will receive an email from our team manager, Jacquelyn Mitchell, no later than September 1, 2026. If you do not receive an email by September 1, and feel this is an error, please reach out to Jacquelyn to discuss, jacquelynmitchell@albertaclimbing.org. If you or your athlete have not automatically qualified for Tier 1, please ensure you register for the Seeding Competition if you intend on competing in the discipline of Boulder for the 2026-2027 season in the U17 (Youth B) or U19 (Youth A) categories.

Registrations for memberships and events will be available soon. Please keep an eye out for communications on when they open up.

We understand that this is a shift for the ACA and there may be questions that arise from it, please do not hesitate to reach out to us, if you have any questions.

President’s Message: Tier 1 and 2 Policy

CLIMBING IS GROWING!

This is a good problem to have, but it does present challenges.  I have been a part of the competition climbing community going on 13 years now since my daughter Sydney entered her first competition and I volunteered as a judge at her second.  That’s long enough that those of you who know me as Seth’s Dad don’t know I had a daughter that competed while he just ran around the gym getting into trouble while I helped run the competitions.

One of the priorities of the ACA has always been more fun climbing.  This is the most valuable lesson that I received from the founders of the ACA.  So far this has been manageable with all skill levels being able to participate at the same competitions.  However, there was a step change 3 years ago, when we had to split the C and D Categories into their own competitions so we could properly manage the size of our events (i.e. climbing is growing).  Later we added a voluntary Tier 2 to those C/D competitions so that A and B athletes that were still developing could participate in competitions that could help develop their experience.

Fast forward to today.  We find ourselves in a position where we can no longer accommodate the growth of our sport, not with a Tier 1 that anyone can participate in and a voluntary Tier 2.  There are two overriding reasons for this.  

• First, the other priority of the ACA comes to the forefront in that we are responsible for developing and qualifying athletes for Nationals.  The difference in skill levels at our boulder competitions is causing issues in setting routes that challenge our top athletes and at the same time provide our developing athletes with a rewarding experience.  

• Secondly, the formats we need to maintain to prepare our top athletes for Nationals are causing our competitions to run too long and are providing very little rewarding climbing to our developing athletes.  

Because of this, we have to introduce a more rigid 2 tier system into our bouldering competitions.  This was mentioned at our AGM and has been a rumor that has been circulating for a while now.  The ACA Board does have a feel for what the concerns are from our membership, and this letter is meant to clarify rumors and update everyone on the high level plan at this time.

Let’s start with what Tier 2 will NOT be:  Tier 2 will not be what Tier 2 was in the 2025/26 season.  

Tier 2 in the 2025/26 season was allowing Youth A and B athletes to compete at the Youth C/D competitions for experience.  No dedicated Youth A and B routes, no finals, no podium, no medals.  This is not the way the first Tier 2 competition pilot was held.  The Tier 2 pilot had a finals for Youth A and B and a podium and medals.  I was Jury President for this competition down at Coulee Climbing in Lethbridge.  To date it is one of the most fun competitions I’ve ever run.  The smiles on the Youth A and B competitor’s faces as they competed for a podium they couldn’t otherwise have a chance at in Tier 1 will never leave my memory.

Here’s what Tier 2 WILL be. 

• It will be a qualifier format that provides more climbing than what we use in Tier 1.  

• It will be dedicated finals routes for Youth A and B. 

•  It will have a Youth A and B podium with medals and it will have aggregate points and a season championship trophy.  

• It will be the same quality competition for our Youth A and B Tier 2 athletes as the competitions we have always held.  If we don’t meet this level of quality in our Tier 2 competitions, we will be failing a part of our membership, and we take that very seriously (i.e. ‘more fun climbing’).

I hope that the promise of a vastly elevated quality of competition for Tier 2 puts minds at ease, but, of course, why do we have to do this?

Competition climbing is very unique in that competition climbers cannot elevate their level without setters.  Hockey players don’t rely on referees or ice makers to elevate their skill level.  Competitive swimmers do not rely on timing systems or the amount of chlorine or salt in the pool to elevate their level.  Gymnasts don’t rely on the brand of equipment in the gym to elevate their level.  However, in climbing, a competitive climber’s skill level is directly related to the routes and boulders they routinely train and compete on, which are established by the route setters.

To illustrate this point, a number of years ago, the ACA received some feedback that the route setting in Alberta wasn’t properly preparing our athletes for Nationals.  From that feedback, we instituted a program of flying in out of province National and International setters to help mentor our ACA setters.  Over the course of a few years ACA athletes went from earning very few podiums at National Boulder events to earning 25% and even up to 30% of the podiums at Nationals.  We also went from having no ACA setters set at Nationals to having several National qualified setters.  Clear evidence that advanced setting, leads to advanced athletes.

Taking this back to where we are at now, the breadth of skill level of athletes at our Bouldering competitions forces our setters to accommodate not only athletes that are on the podium at Nationals, but also developing athletes.  This results in Boulders that are too easy for our top athletes, and too hard for our developing athletes.  This scenario doesn’t serve either level of athlete.  We can’t push our top athletes and we can’t properly challenge our developing athletes.  So aside from competitions running long because of numbers, we are not properly serving the various skill levels of athletes in our membership.  Changing to a two tier system allows us to meet the specific development needs of far more athletes than we can now.

The system we are working on is being considered from all sides.  

• There will be athletes who get a buy to Tier 1 based on a high level of past performance.  

• There will be a seeding competition to determine who is eligible for Tier 1 and who competes in Tier 2.  

• There will be an opportunity for movement from Tier 2 to Tier 1 and an option for movement from Tier 1 to Tier 2.

If we get the selection process right on the first go, all athletes that have a legitimate chance at earning a spot to Regionals/Nationals, will be in Tier 1.  Athletes in Tier 2 will have very rewarding competition experiences, podiums, medals and even Tier 2 aggregate trophies.  There will also be opportunity for high achieving Tier 2 athletes to move up to compete in Tier 1 for experience, but still compete in Tier 2 for aggregate points.

If we get some of it wrong, there will be a safety net decision making process to ensure that an athlete that has a clear chance at Nationals does not somehow end up in Tier 2.

This is a big change.  But our sport is growing, and that’s a good problem to have.  Many, many other sports have multiple tiers.  We can’t get away from it if we want to be able to best serve multiple skill levels.  I have talked to other PTSOs (Provincial and Territorial Sport Organizations) across Canada who are also navigating a two tier competition system, and I truly believe the ACA will be a leader in implementing this.

There will be more details to come.  We are working very hard over the summer to make this transition the best that it can be.  We won’t get it perfect, but we are committed to being flexible in our approach to get it right.  Climbing is an amazing sport.  We want the best for every one of our members.  Because of course more climbing is always better!

Thanks!

Mark Kozak

Alberta Climbing Association President

Applications for Routesetters for the 2026-2027 Season

The ACA is now accepting applications for Routesetters for our 2026-2027 competition season. The ACA will hire the Head and Assistant Setters. In collaboration with the Head and Assistant Setters and the ACA the gyms will hire the remaining route setters for the events. 

To apply please fill out the Google Form to let us know which events you would like to be considered for AND email your CV to me at jacquelynmitchell@albertaclimbing.org. We will be accepting applications until August 24, 2026 at 11:59 pm. 

Call for members - ACA Parent Volunteer Committee

The ACA board would like to get a group of parents together to help in  sharing some of the load for some key activities for ACA. Signing up for this group does not commit you to anything yet! 

Activities that we would like to this group to help with include:

- organizing volunteers to run competitions

- exploring / organizing ACA merchandise

- organizing other items (like competition hotels) that will enhance competitions

If you are interested in hearing more or joining this group, please email me at juliatagoe@albertaclimbing.org. 

Updated selection process for CWG

The ACA Board has approved a new selection process for the CWG due to a change in the event, mainly adding a second medal. The CWG will now have a medal event for Boulder and Lead. The updated policy on the selection process has been uploaded under the CWG of the website. It can also be found here.

SAVE THE DATE: CANADA WINTER GAMES SELECTION CAMP

The ACA is excited to announce Regan Kennedy as the Head Coach for Team Alberta for the Canada Winter Games and Chris Neve as the Team Manager! Our planning and development team has already started looking at how we are going to get Team Alberta ready for Sport Climbings inaugural moment in the Canada Winter Games. The format for Sport Climbing in the CWG has changed, mostly by adding a second medal! Now there will be a medal for Boulder and for Lead! Due to some of the changes we have recently learned about we are having to make some adjustments to our timeline and selection process.

Please SAVE THE DATES for October 2-4 for the Selection Camp, which will now have a Boulder and Lead component!

2026 ACA Annual General Meeting

The ACA AGM is scheduled for May 24, 2026 at 7:30 pm. Please see the event page for log in details! We hope to see you there!!!

Hotel Block for Regionals

The ACA has a hotel block for athletes attending Regionals. The details can be viewed here

Canada Winter Games Coach and Team Manager

We are ready to start the hiring process for our Coach and Team Manager that will be representing Alberta and coaching the athletes that qualify for the Canada Winter Games for Alberta! If you are interested please reach. out to us! The job descriptions are here

2025-2026 CEC Senior Nationals

Alberta is hosting the CEC Senior Boulder and Lead National events this year! We kick off the competitions this Thursday, February 12, 2026 with the Qualifying rounds for Boulder. Bolder Elevated is hosting the Boulder portion of the event and CCC Rocky is hosting the Lead competition. Please consider signing up to volunteer and showing the CEC how wonderful our ACA community is!

Hoodie Design Contest Voting

Hi Everyone! The finalists for the hoodie design contest have been chosen and voting is now available! Please click here to cast your vote!

Setting Position Application

Setting position applications (due Feb 20)

Details: Facilitated by IFSC setter Flannery Shay-Nemirow, this setting clinic will allow experienced competition setters to build competition setting leadership experience by mentoring new competition setters. Experienced setters will spend April 29, 30, and May 1 with Flannery, learning the logistics and leadership skills involved in leading a competition crew. On April 30 and May 1 each mentor will be paired with 2 mentee setters and will guide them in setting competition boulders for the ACA youth training camp. There will be ample time for discussion, collaboration, and sharing concrete advice on building a competition setting career. After the event, setters are invited to observe the ACA youth nationals training camp and provide insight to athletes on the boulders.

• Mentors (Experienced competition setters):

  • Ideal candidates have 3+ years experience setting competitions at the provincial and national level. Leadership experience (head setter at competitions, head setter at commercial gym, experience leading setting clinics) is a plus.

  • Interested in providing mentorship to new competition setters.

  • Compensation: $250/day for April 29, 30, May 1 and May 2

  • Please send setting resume and optional cover letter to paigeboklaschuk@albertaclimbing.org

• Mentees (new competition setters):

  • Minimum one year commercial or local competition setting experience with aspirations to set at the provincial and national level.

  • Interest in taking part in a collaborative, mentorship-based setting clinic.

  • This position is unpaid as it is considered a development experience for mentees (April 30, May 1, May 2)

  • Please send setting resume and optional cover letter to paigeboklaschuk@albertaclimbing.org

Coaching position applications (Due Feb 20)

Details: The ACA bouldering youth training camp is aimed towards ACA youth athletes who will be competing at youth bouldering regionals or nationals in 2026. Coaches will collaborate with the ACA to run a successful training camp and create a supportive learning environment. The training camp will consist of mock competitions, technical sessions on boulders, and potentially workshops with setters and/or coaches.

• Coaching application:

  • Ideal candidates have 3+ years of competitive coaching experience. Experience coaching or competing at a national or international level is an asset.

  • Compensation: $200/day for May 2

  • Please indicate your training, education, and whether you have any specific expertise that you could share in a workshop with the athletes.

  • Please send setting resume and optional cover letter to paigeboklaschuk@albertaclimbing.org

Qualification Pathway for Saskatchewan Athletes

We are excited to congratulate Sport Climbing Saskatchewan (SCS) on becoming a Provincial Sporting Organization, PSO. SCS incorporated in 2025. Now that SCS is incorporated there are some changes to the qualification pathway for Saskatchewan athletes. The CEC, SCS, ACA, and Climb Manitoba have released a joint statement today outlining these changes. To read the statement please click here.

ACA Hoodie Contest Update

As a reminder our Hoodie Design Contest is still running, thank you for the submissions we have received so far! We have decided to extend the submission deadline, the new deadline is January 25! Voting will begin on January 28 and end on February 25. So you still have time to get your submissions in! Please reference the ACA Hoodie Design Contest page on the website for further details. We can’t wait to see your designs!!!!

ACA Resource Survey

The ACA Competition Committee will begin work on a Resource Page for the ACA website. We would love to hear from our membership as to what resources you’d like to see provided on the website. We want to help create content that will clarify our sport as much as possible for everyone involved.

We have created a short Google Form for you to fill out to give us insight into the most important resources we can develop. Please take a few minutes to fill out the Form!

Thank you for your help!

Registration Deadline Extended for Speed Provincials

The ACA has extended the registration deadline for Speed Provincials. It will now close on December 11, 2025 at 11:59 pm. We will also be sending a $30 refund to all participants of the Speed Local and Speed Provincials event. We accidentally set the registration fee at $80 for these events, it should have been $50. We are sorry for this inconvenience but we will correct the mistake over the next week. Thank you for your understanding!